Mammoth Lakes
The Town of Mammoth Lakes is the premier tourist destination of the Eastern Sierra, known for its world-class skiing, multitude of summertime lakes, food, golfing and an upscale resort feel with a down-home populace.
Don’t ask where “Mammoth Lake” is or you’ll stick out like a sore thumb—there isn’t one. The lakes that Mammoth is famous for are in the stunning Lakes Basin, located about two miles from the chichi Village at Mammoth, the closest thing Mammoth has to a “downtown.” A better landmark is the popular Mammoth Brewing Company, which sits at the corner of Minaret and Main Street (State Route 203, which takes travelers through the center of town). Main Street turns into Lake Mary Road, which meanders west, gaining elevation, until drivers get a birds-eye view of the Mammoth, Crowley Lake, and the spectacular White Mountains to the east. It’s also a popular road for cyclists and runners thanks to the paved Lakes Basin Path which allows those on foot or wheel to circumnavigate the five-plus lakes (six if you count the Twin Lakes as two) accessible by road in the basin. Cycling is a great way to see the area, as it grows more popular each summer and parking can be a pain. There are several excellent campgrounds, many within a stone’s throw of an alpine lake. In the winter, the Lakes Basin turns into a cross-country ski paradise run by Mammoth Mountain as Tamarack Lodge & Resort (free nordic skiing can be had although the impeccably groomed trails maintained by Tamarack are jealousy-inducing).
Then of course there’s the crown jewel of the town and its lifeblood—the 11,053’ Mammoth Mountain. A massive ski resort in winter and an epic bike park in the summer, Mammoth was founded by the visionary Dave McCoy in 1953 (you can find his likeness all over, and a statue of him skiing in The Village). Its the highest ski resort in California and gets about 400” of snow annually (along with an average of 300 out of 365 days of sunshine), though the 2016/17 season smashed records. On a good snow year, skiers can shred until the Fourth of July weekend at Mammoth. In peak season, the ski area is has more than 3,500 acres of ski terrain which can be accessed by 28 lifts, two of which are gondolas. Three base lodges serve the mountain during the winter, and Main Lodge at the end of Minaret Road is the headquarters for late-season skiing and the bike and adventure park.
Hotels are hard to come by so book ahead, especially if you’ll be visiting in peak winter or summer, and be prepared to pay an exorbitant amount for a Motel 6 or Best Western. Airbnb and VRBO are becoming more popular options for lodging, but the town is zoned in such a way that it restricts use of those platforms (due to a severe housing shortage for employees), so there are only a few areas in town that guests can (legally) go through Airbnb.
The town is a stop for Pacific Crest Trail thru-hikers, and is geared toward adventurers on the go, so stop into Stellar Brew for a bohemian vibe and the best, fastest breakfast burritos in town. If taking your time is more your thing, try the minimalist and craft-oriented Black Velvet Coffee, which also serves Belgian street waffles, wine and beer.
Restaurant Skadi and Petra’s Bistro are locally considered the best upscale dining options, with Petra’s being located adjacent to the Alpenhof Hotel, a quaint Austrian-themed place to rest your head which also boasts a great dive bar, The Clocktower.
Roberto’s is a locals’ favorite, with the best margaritas in town (go on Margarita Wednesday for killer deals) and fajitas made with duck or lobster.
Though you can have a great stay in Mammoth on a budget (the locals somehow make it work), be prepared to drop a little cash if you’re skiing, dining out or sleeping anywhere other than in a tent.
Food in Mammoth
Adventures Near Mammoth
A unique dark sky festival is coming to the Eastern Sierra in 2020!
Convict Lake is the place I always recommend to any friend visiting the Eastern Sierra—the hike circumnavigating the lake is short enough, at about two miles, for novice trekkers, but the terrain is so varied that to accomplish it feels noteworthy.
There isn’t really anything better than a good old fashioned giggle-fest, which is what a trip to Woolly’s Tube Park really delivers on.
Obsidian Dome is a geology nerd’s dream. Nerd fact number one: The eruption date for the area around Obsidian Dome is one of the best estimated eruption dates in the prehistoric period on the planet.
Mammoth’s “Scenic Loop,” to be honest, isn’t that scenic—at least not when compared with the jaw-dropping 4-lake June Lake Loop.
If you’re not into sliding down hills wearing two planks (or one, if you’re a snowboarder), there’s still plenty to do in the Eastern Sierra in the wintertime, whether you prefer getting your hiking boots on solid dirt or are into the awesome exercise of cross-country skiing (only recently did I realize that a NordicTrack mimics the whole-body workout of this activity).
For all the natural wonders present in the Eastern Sierra, there are almost as many breweries in which to enjoy a libation after your hike, ski, climb or (insert adventure here). From June Lake Brewing in Mono County to Mountain Rambler Brewery in Bishop, the odds of hitting a brewery close to your destination are in your favor.
Mammoth Rock ’n Bowl is one of the town’s newest additions, opening up in TK. It’s got a more modern feel than a lot of the town’s establishments, with a slick bar downstairs and a brasserie run by French chef Frederic Pierrel (formerly of Lakefront fame) upstairs with epic views of The Sherwins.
As the affordability and access to backcountry ski gear improves, more and more skiers and snowboarders are taking their hobbies off piste—but it’s important to remember that, even in a winter wonderland, the dangers of venturing away from civilization are very real.
The location of the natural hot springs in the Eastern Sierra used to be quite the little locals’ secret—in the old days, visitors might ask a bartender or a clerk where to find them and get a cryptic answer—understandably, the locals wanted to keep these places to themselves.
The Warming Hut, which opened in the fall of 2018, is seriously what Mammoth has been waiting for. Especially locals like me, who freaking love breakfast.
Ramenya is a real crowd-pleaser tucked away on a side street in a quaint a-frame building.
Oh, John’s Pizza Works, how thou hast saved me many a drunk evening where, in the one-horse town of Mammoth Lakes where no restaurants seem to stay open past 8 p.m., you offer pizza, wings, beer and liquor until midnight (or 11 p.m. on weekdays).
Roberto’s claims that it’s been “Mammoth’s favorite Mexican restaurant since 1985,” and, though that sounds like just a phrase you’d slap on a t-shirt, it’s honestly true.
Ah, Nevados. It’s the place you go to get strong gin & tonics, even stronger shots of whiskey, and generally an all-around festive atmosphere. Show up during any happy hour (5:00-6:00 p.m.) and you’ll find the bar full of Mammoth locals, most of whom are already tipsy, shooting the breeze with the long time bartenders.
Campo is great, if you hit it right. If you decide to saunter in on a Saturday night during Christmas or the Fourth of July, you’re probably not going to have a great time.
The Mammoth Brewing Company, located at the corner of Main Street and Minaret Roads, has really taken off in the last couple of years.
Stellar Brew, located in the distinctive blue building on Main Street of Mammoth Lakes (next to the Chevron station), has a delightful bohemian vibe and one of the best sundecks in town.
Mammoth Tavern, located upstairs in a little strip mall which also houses a Thai restaurant and a few law offices, doesn’t look that impressive from the parking lot. But take a walk upstairs and you’ve got huge views of the Sherwins—the alpenglow show from Mammoth Tavern can’t be beat.
The Stove is a true greasy spoon—and Mammoth locals and visitors wouldn’t have it any other way.