Bishop
Bishop wears a lot of hats; once a year it’s the mule capital of the world, it’s been voted one of the best small towns in the country with the best trail running opportunities, it’s a rock climbing mecca, home to one of the most popular bakeries in the state, there’s world-class fishing, a rich Native American culture, extensive OHV trails and beautiful Bishop Creek Canyon that should be designated a National Park.
It’s a unique place where real cowboys stand in line next to dreadlocked rock climbers and County Supervisors at the annual Lion’s Club Pancake Breakfast.
Named after Samuel A. Bishop in 1862, the City of Bishop was incorporated in 1903. The city proper has a population of about 4,000, with another 10,000 living adjacent to the city limits, and rises to about 30,000 on Mule Days. Situated at 4,100 feet, it lies in one of the deepest valleys in the world, the Sierra Nevada range rising to 14,000 feet.
The jewel of Bishop is the City Park. There are acres of well-groomed grass and shade trees, a pond with ducks, a meandering creek and a dog park. It’s the center for Earth Day celebrations, Christmas Tree lighting, arts and crafts shows and fishing clinics.
With one of the largest non-motorized parades in the world, Mule Days has been invading Bishop every Memorial Day since 1969. It’s part equestrian show, part festival and party. There is a mule days celebrations in all 50 states, but Bishop’s is considered the show.
Nearly every local lodging establishment in Bishop was remodeled in 2016, with prices to fit any budget or life-style from the chains like Motel 6, Ramada, Holiday Inn and Creekside to the locally owned Trees Motel, the Thunderbird and the Elms. Each has its own charm.
The only department store within 150 miles, Kmart, is located next to Vons at the north end of town. Don’t forget Manor Market and its massive beer and wine selection in West Bishop or the slower pace of Joseph’s Bi-Rite Market in the center of town. There are great Mexican markets popping up around town with specialties and a little spice.
Erick Schat’s Dutch Bakkery Located across from the City Park, is a landmark and for many travelers a destination and a tradition, to buy pull-apart or chile cheese bread. Opened it 2003, Great Basin Bakery has been giving Schats some competition with cookies, salads and sandwiches including vegan and vegetarian options, look for the bagel sign on Main Street.
For a pick-me-up, get to Looney Bean Coffee or Black Sheep Coffee across the street. Both places are groovy hangouts to chill in the sun with a Dirty Hippie or cappuccino. More local color can be found at Hing’s Donuts, conveniently located next to Starbucks. If you get there in the morning, say hello to the Thunder and Lightning Group, a local think tank fueled by maple bars and town gossip.
The superb climbing at Buttermilk Boulders and the Owens Valley Gorge had been a secret for decades, but in the last 25 years, word has spread and climbers flock from around the globe to the local rocks, and have created some of the hardest climbing problems in the world.
Food in Bishop
Adventures near Bishop
A unique stargazing experience has landed in the Eastern Sierra.
Keough’s Hot Springs hasn’t changed a whole heckuva lot since 1919, when Phillip Keough bought the land, envisioning a health resort. The heyday of the hot spring, in the 1920s and ‘30s, saw the resort as a hub of Owens Valley society.
The petroglyphs in the Volcanic Tablelands outside of Bishop are one of the most awe-inspiring and intriguing things to see in the Eastern Sierra. Their locations are no longer widely advertised, unfortunately, due to destruction of some of the ancient art—if you visit the Chidago Canyon site, you can see where chunks of the volcanic tuff have been shaved off by vandals.
Dust off your cowboy boots, put on your hat and head over to Bishop’s Main Street - there’s only one - to celebrate Mule Days. Here, in the Mule Capital of the World, breeders, trainers, and riders from all over the world come to celebrate the rare creation of a jack and mare.
If you’re not into sliding down hills wearing two planks (or one, if you’re a snowboarder), there’s still plenty to do in the Eastern Sierra in the wintertime, whether you prefer getting your hiking boots on solid dirt or are into the awesome exercise of cross-country skiing (only recently did I realize that a NordicTrack mimics the whole-body workout of this activity).
For all the natural wonders present in the Eastern Sierra, there are almost as many breweries in which to enjoy a libation after your hike, ski, climb or (insert adventure here). From June Lake Brewing in Mono County to Mountain Rambler Brewery in Bishop, the odds of hitting a brewery close to your destination are in your favor.
The Eastside is rich in natural beauty, steep and dramatic that makes it ideal setting for the sciences. Whether it’s geology or flowers or testing Einstein’s Theory of General Relativity or looking for galaxies beyond the Milky Way and even dark matter, the Eastern Sierra is a giant laboratory to test theories and the study the world, and the worlds around us.
As the affordability and access to backcountry ski gear improves, more and more skiers and snowboarders are taking their hobbies off piste—but it’s important to remember that, even in a winter wonderland, the dangers of venturing away from civilization are very real.
The location of the natural hot springs in the Eastern Sierra used to be quite the little locals’ secret—in the old days, visitors might ask a bartender or a clerk where to find them and get a cryptic answer—understandably, the locals wanted to keep these places to themselves.
Black Sheep Coffee Roasters is a local, hole-in-the-wall java joint with good WiFi and plenty of tables. There’s a couch, magazines, chess boards and a little stage for big music next to the window.
Holy Smoke on Main Street/Highway 395 is relatively new to the Bishop area but has established itself as the barbecue scene.Meats are smoked on site, but without the telltale plume of smoke.
Walk into Owens Valley Distilling Company, and you may feel you’ve been transplanted suddenly to a much hipper town than little old Bishop, California—Portland, Oregon comes to mind.
Getting a coffee or drink at Looney Bean Coffee Roasting is like having coffee at your friend’s place. The music isn’t too dry, the couches are comfy and the WiFi connection is solid. The coffee’s rich, the tea is spicy.
To get to the door of Astorga’s Restaurant, you have to walk past the shaded patio filled with flowers in the summer. Stepping inside, every employee says hello and smiles. Most of the workers are family members.
Mountain Rambler Brewing Company is the brainchild of perfectionist Joe Lane, and it shows. Lane’s little touches are everywhere, from the sweet logo on the growlers (an imprint of a hiking boot) to the sound-absorbing panels he’s installed in the building to make the acoustics better for visiting bands (he brings some real talent to little old Bishop).
Get a buzz and some local color at Rusty’s Saloon First opened in the 1940s, Rusty’s used to be a classic cowboy and Indian bar, with plenty of brawls and country music, courtesy of the local patrons and plenty of cattle in need of punching at nearby ranches.
The smell of broiled steaks and barbecue ribs hits your nose the minute you pull open the door at Aaron Schat’s Roadhouse. Chickens turn slowly in the roaster just behind the cashier next to shelves of cold beer.
For years, Erick Schat’s Bakkery has been the only game in town for fresh bread and pastries. Then Great Basin Bakery opened its doors and the sweet smell of bagels and pies and vegan cookies wafted through the Owens Valley.
Smoking meat isn’t easy, it’s hard to keep lit. Mahogany Smoke Meats located on the north side of Highway 395 in Bishop, across from the Chevron, has been serving the finest smoked meats and jerky since 1922 -- when the owner known only as “Wally” slept in the back of the store.